The London Men’s Collections Start the Fall Fashion Season

09/gen/2016 08.06.30 stricklinn Contatta l'autore

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Fashion buyers and news media from around the world are arriving this weekend for London Collections Men, a four-day event that has become not just a curtain raiser for the traditional men’s wear catwalk season but also a source of financial firepower that goes far beyond its runways.

The new collections — and new year — were toasted by about 250 people at the opening party on Thursday night, held at stately Spencer House in St James’s and hosted by the British Fashion Council’s men’s wear committee.

“This is the biggest LCM yet since we started in 2012,” said a dapperly dressed Dylan Jones, the committee’s chairman and the editor of British GQ magazine, as he greeted guests. Mr. Jones was wearing a gray check two-piece suit from Kilgour, regarded by many as the most fashion-forward of the Savile Row tailors.

“We’ve got 170 designers showing this season and an extra day on the schedule, with a 15 percent spike in buyer attendance from buyers, and editors from 42 countries,” Mr. Jones said. “The spike in international interest says a great deal — namely that we can compete with Paris and Milan. And that, coupled with the fact major foreign brands like Coach and Moschino are choosing to show here, tells you that London is an essential place to see and be seen when it comes to the men’s wear market.”

Stalwarts of the London fashion scene were out in force, including Jefferson Hack, co-founder of Dazed and Confused magazine, who had come straight from the airport after his Christmas vacation; David Gandy, the model and underwear entrepreneur; and the British artist Tracey Emin. The film producer David Furnish chatted with Will.i.am by a roaring log fire, while a sea of excitable models, young designers and dozens of gentlemen dandies sipped Champagne or pink lemonade to the strains of “Club Tropicana” by Wham!

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No one stayed late, given the packed calendar and constant threat of rain, which continued well into Friday, when many made the rounds at the designer showrooms — all under one roof at Victoria House in Bloomsbury Square.

Around the corner, bright young things including the singer Nick Jonas and the actor Douglas Booth gathered in the front row for the Topman show, the opening act to a schedule that will present tailoring talent from Savile Row, such as E. Tautz and Richard James; East London-based young guns, such as Christopher Shannon and Jonathan Anderson; and megabrands including Burberry, Dunhill and Alexander McQueen.

“There’s a real energy here in London, and the LCM concept has made real waves,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, noting that New York had followed suit with its New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which started last July.

“We have created an identity and celebration of British men’s fashion where there wasn’t one, boosting the profile of businesses of all ages and stages to give them real commercial clout,’’ she said. “We know we’re being noticed now and that’s fantastic. London is the style capital of the world right now.”

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